Tuesday, March 13, 2007

Spaghetti Carbonara - my family's favorite

Let me start with a warning: this recipe is not good for you. The Atkins and Zone folks will hate it because it is all pasta, and the low fat folks will hate it because it is loaded with cheese, eggs and bacon. If you are still reading at this point then you'll appreciate that this is one of the most delicious meals on the planet. One of the best things about this dish is that you can and probably do have everything you need to make it already on hand in your fridge or on your kitchen cupboard shelf. I like to have some really good bacon - my favorite is Neiman Ranch uncured bacon - in the fridge for any bacon emergencies that might come up. I mean, let's face it, you never know.

The name comes from the Italian charcoal makers who would go up into the forests for weeks at a time to cut timber and make charcoal. They could only bring food items that would keep and dry pasta, eggs, cured bacon, garlic and wine were perfect. Someone asked me how eggs could be on the list - since we refridgerate eggs. American eggs are washed which removes a protective layer from the shell that would keep them fresh without refridgeration. If you had your own chickens at home you could keep the eggs out on the counter until you used them.

I use all Pecorino Romano - freshly grated, but you can opt for all Parmigiano or a blend of the two. Whatever tastes best to you is the way to go. I also like to throw some frozen peas in with the pasta right at the end of the cooking because I like the little bit of bright color that they add the dish. My kids pick them out and pile them up on the sides of their plates, but someday when they grow up they'll like them too. If you happen to have a few garden fresh tomatoes around you can chop them up and toss them in or sprinkle them on top of the bowl. I'll also broil a few tomatoes and use them if that is the best I have. The red is pretty, yes, but it is the acidity of the tomato that pares well with the satiny richness of this dish. The original recipe (from Cook's Illustrated) has raw garlic mixed in with the eggs and cheese. I like that, but I've started adding the garlic to the bacon and wine instead to mellow out its bite - it was getting to be too much for the kids.

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Spaghetti Carbonara


1 pound dry spaghetti
1 package best quality bacon (Neiman Ranch is great), cut into 1/4-inch cubes
1/2 cup dry white wine or Vermouth
3 garlic cloves, crushed
3 large eggs
1 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano
1 cup frozen peas, optional


1. Put water on to boil. Salt water if desired. When water boils, cook spaghetti (or whatever pasta you are using) according to package directions for al dente. If using peas, add them during the last 2 minutes of pasta cooking.

2. Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat (I use cast iron for this because it keeps these components of the sauce warm while they are waiting for the pasta to finish cooking). Add bacon and cook, reducing heat if bacon begins to burn. Cook until the bacon fat is rendered. Turn heat to medium and add wine, stir and scrape for 30 seconds then add garlic. Stir for 1 minute then turn off heat and cover pan, put aside (at the back of the stovetop is a good spot).

3. Lightly beat together the three eggs and the cheese, put aside.

4. When pasta is done, scoop out 1 cup of the cooking water and reserve. Pour pasta into colander, let drain for 30 seconds then return to the cooking pot. If pasta seems dry or sticky, add enough of the reserved cooking water to loosen it up and moisten it. Pour warm bacon, wine, garlic mixture over pasta and stir to combine. Add egg and cheese mixture to pasta and stir to thoroughly coat.

Serve and Eat immediately. Have extra grated cheese and a pepper grinder at the table just in case you want to tweek your helping just a little bit. If you can - eat it all now. Spaghetti Carbonara doesn't really re-heat very well.

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